Common Name: Green Iguana
Latin name: Iguana iguana
Native to: Central and South America. Imported iguanas are generally from
Columbia, El Salvador, Honduras, Peru, Mexico, and Surinam.
Size: Adult iguanas range in size from four to six feet in length.
Life span: If properly cared for, iguanas should live more than 20 years in
captivity.
Special Note: While many people consider the green iguana a beginners pet,
nothing is further from the truth. Iguanas require specialized care and management
that is generally beyond the knowledge of most novices. It is because of this
lack of knowledge that a majority of juvenile iguanas die prematurely. Iguana
owners need to be aware of the specialized diet and housing requirements that
the green iguana requires. If looking for a great beginner reptile or amphibian
pet, consider a corn snake, milk snake, ball python, leopard gecko, bearded
dragon, or pac man frog. All of these species are fun and a great way to begin
in the hobby!
General appearance: Iguanas are what most people think of when they think "lizard." They
have five toes on each foot. They posses a fleshy flap of skin under the chin
called a dewlap. All iguanas have spines that run the length of the back. Contrary
to popular belief, not all iguanas are green. Most juveniles are bright green,
but as they age and grow they can range in color from a dull green to brown
or even orange with striped tails.
Housing requirements:
Enclosure: The enclosure for an adult iguana is very large. The enclosure
should be at least six feet tall, about 1½ to twice the length of the iguana,
and 2/3 to one full length of the iguana wide. For a six foot adult iguana,
this is an enclosure that is 9 to 12 feet long, four to six feet wide, and
at least six feet tall. Sufficient branches and shelves for climbing and lounging
should also be provided. To give you perspective on the size of the enclosure,
most small bedrooms are only 9 feet wide. This is why many owners dedicate
a separate room as their "iguana room." Some owners also allow their
iguanas to "free range" throughout the house. If you allow your iguana
to live in its own room or free range, be sure the keep the area the iguana
will frequent free of small objects that the iguana may accidentally ingest.
Temperature: Iguanas come from a tropical climate and need to be kept warm.
Daytime temperatures should be 80° - 85° F with a basking spot of 90° - 95°
F. There should be a range of temperatures offered to the iguana to allow it
to thermoregulate itself. Nighttime temperatures should be 75° - 80° F. All
temperatures should be verified with a thermometer regularly.
Heat/Light: Ultraviolet lighting providing UVA and UVB is required for proper
calcium metabolism and skeletal development. Without the proper lighting your
will become sick and die a very painful death. Proper lighting can be provided
utilizing fluorescent tubes specially made for use by reptiles as well as mercury
vapor bulbs that also provide some heat as well. Additional heat can be provided
utilizing infrared ceramic emitters and incandescent basking bulbs. Hot rocks
should never be used under any circumstance as they can severely burn your
iguana.
Substrate: Iguanas will often tongue lick their surroundings. Because of this
most particulate substrate (wood shavings, mulch, sand, or powder types) are
not appropriate for most iguanas. Newspaper with non-toxic ink, butcher's paper,
paper towels, indoor/outdoor carpeting, or artificial grass all make excellent
choices. If using indoor/outdoor carpeting or artificial grass please be sure
that there are no dangling strings that could tangle in your iguana's nails.
It's also recommended that you have multiple pieces so that you may replace
the soiled pieces with the clean set and then clean and disinfect the current
set to use for the next cleaning.
Environment: Iguanas come from a tropical climate and require a humidity level
of 65% to 75%. To achieve this may require several mistings a day. Many people
opt to purchase an automatic misting system instead.
Diet: Iguanas are strict herbivores. Many older literatures will suggest feeding
animal protein or even cat food. While some wild iguanas may ingest the occasional
insect while eating leaves, it is not a significant portion on their diet.
Iguanas that are fed too much animal protein will develop health problems and
will die prematurely. A well balanced iguana diet will consist of about 40%
to 45% greens (this includes, but is not limited to collard greens, turnip
greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens (with flowers), escarole, and/or water
cress), 40% to 45% other vegetables (this includes but is not limited to green
beans, orange-fleshed squashes (butternut, Kabocha), snap or snow peas, parsnip,
asparagus, okra, alfalfa (mature, not sprouts), onions, mushrooms, bell peppers,
sweet potato, zucchini, yellow squash, and/or carrots), 10% or less of fruits
(including, but not limited to Figs (raw or dried), blackberries, strawberries,
raspberries, grapes, mango, melon (cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon), papaya,
banana, and/or apple), and less than 5% of other grains or commercial diets.
Iguanas should never be rhubarb as it is toxic. Certain lettuces such as iceberg,
romaine, and Boston butter lack sufficient nutrients and should only be fed
occasionally. Acidic fruits (citrus, tomatoes, kiwi, pineapples, etc.) should
also be only fed occasionally as well. Tofu can be occasionally offered as
well for supplemental protein, though if too much is given it can lead to long
term health issues. Wild plants and flowers are not recommended since they
may be toxic to your iguana or may contain pesticides that could be toxic as
well.
Maintenance: Cleanliness of the enclosure is essential. Waste products should
be removed daily and the enclosure should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected
regularly. A 5% bleach solution provides and excellent disinfectant. Be sure
to thoroughly rinse the solution from the enclosure before placing the iguana
back in. Fresh water should also be offered at all times. Always wash your
hands after handling your iguana or any of your iguana's cage accessories. |
